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Tips For Staining FurnitureStaining furniture is a do-it-yourself project that is fairly easy to accomplish. It doesn't take a lot of materials, is fairly inexpensive, and offers big rewards for the time spent. The current craze for flea-market shopping and trash-to-treasure recycling has many of us taking a new look at refinishing our own furniture. Browse these tips staining furniture. What You'll Need -- Staining furniture is a fairly low-cost project. Here's what you'll need: sandpaper, tack cloths (or damp lint-free rags), a can of stain, some foam brushes, lots of cotton lint-free rags, a plastic tarp, newspapers, a paint tray, and a finishing layer such as polyurethane or wax. Stage Your Project -- First assemble all of your materials and set up one work area for sanding and another for staining and finishing. Plan on sanding and cleaning the furniture one day, stain it the next day, and polyurethane the next. Choosing A Workspace -- Outdoors may be the perfect place to work on sanding a piece. Sawdust can be easily swept or washed away when you're done and dust won't get into anything stored nearby. Keep Dust Down -- After sanding be sure to wipe down each piece with a tack rag or a cloth that is barely damp. Follow up by wiping off with a dry lint-free rag. Set the cleaned items in a sheltered work area (such as a basement or garage) to keep them dust free until staining. Test Stain Colors -- Be sure to test stain colors, application techniques, and waiting times on pieces of scrap wood. Most home centers have sample boards of how stain colors appear on various types of wood so you can choose looks that are light or dark, plain or colored, as needed. Some manufacturers recommend an application of a pre-stain sealer to even out the finished product. Inquire at the hardware store for the required products for your particular project. What Type of Stain? -- You'll find a wide range of stain products at your local home center. Describe your particular project to the experts who work there and get a recommendation. The only type to avoid may be the "all in one" stain and polyurethane product. These offer less much control over color and since they are not "wiped off" the wood grain can be masked or tend to appear muddy. Stir Stain Well -- Shake the can of stain gently to mix tint in well. Open the can and stir again with a paint stick, then pour out about a half inch into a small tray or jar. Recover the can. Working from this smaller tray of stain will let you keep stirring and mixing it with your brush, insuring the color remains evenly distributed as you work. Cover the Floor -- For large pieces of furniture you'll want to protect the floor before you begin working. Lay a plastic tarp on the floor. Cover this with several layers of newspaper. Finally, bring in several blocks of wood (sections of 2x4 lumber will do) to elevate your piece, allowing you to stain the legs all the way to the bottom. Stain Applicators -- Foam brushes make excellent applicators for stain. They can hold a lot of material, be squeezed almost dry for laying off, and are flexible enough to get into corners. While some foam brushes can be purchased for pennies, look for better quality brushes with denser foam and sturdy plastic handles. Work in Manageable Sections -- Decide which sections to work on first. For a table you may want to turn it over and stain the underside first. Once the stain has been applied and wiped down you can begin another section. Leave the most visible areas -- such as the tabletop -- as the last area to be stained. Take it Off -- Removing the stain you've applied is one of the most important steps since it is what will allow the natural wood grain to show through. Read the instructions on the can of stain for important information about both staining and removing the stain. Gary Winnick Don't Let Stain Sit Too Long -- From your sample tests you should have a good idea of how long to let the stain sit before wiping it off. Test the first section by wiping away a small area of stain after a minute or two. Reapply if it should sit a few minutes longer. Don't wait until the stain becomes tacky, however, as it will turn splotchy and be extremely difficult to remove. Ragging Off -- Be sure you have a big supply of rags on hand, especially if your project is large. Clean lint-free rags are the best way to remove a layer of stain. Paint stores sell bags of rags for this purpose. Check to make sure these rags are large enough for your project. (Some rags are cut-up remnants from making T-shirts and are too small and oddly-shaped, making them more difficult to work with.) Let Dry -- Once the staining is complete, let your pieces dry undisturbed in an area that's free from dust and breezes. Check the can's instructions on drying time which will vary by manufacturer. Humidity levels in your area can also be a factor. Letting pieces dry at least 24 hours will generally be adequate for most projects. Run a Hand -- Before processing pieces any further be sure they are dry and clean. If you can feel areas of raised grain then a light sanding might be in order to knock down the grain. Clean well before applying polyurethane or another finish. Polyurethane Tips -- Many projects can be finished by applying two or more coats of a water based latex polyurethane. These are available in a range of glosses from matte to high gloss. The liquid is often milky in appearance but dries clear. Sand lightly between coats for the smoothest finish. Apply more coats to the areas of the furniture that will receive the most wear. Other Finishes -- Furniture can have other finishes besides polyurethane. Wax, shellac, and oil are all popular for adding a protective sheen to wood. Inquire at a home center or obtain a book on refinishing for more about these options. |
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